Crane Brothers Michael and Rob

It was the night they figured out the final blend. Also the night they came up with the crazy name. But after hours doing micro-assemblages of tiny lots of estate-bottled Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, finally even a touch of amazing Syrah, the Crane brothers came up with a bit of magic. The 2004 release drew raves from Parker. The 2005 just won the San Francisco Chronicle Gold Medal. The wine was named “Brodatious,” a combination of “brother” and “bodacious” — and maybe just one glass too many of a deep purple, sumptuous Napa Valley red wine that you can’t quite put down.

Michael and Rob Crane spent top dollar developing these nine pristine acres on Oak Knoll, planting largely to Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s a spot that’s attracted the elite of Napa, wineries like Caymus and Lewis. Why? Because the vines enjoy cool breezy evenings, allowing the Cranes to stretch out the growing season. In 2005, this paid big dividends as the three separate blocks were harvested a week apart, going well into the end of October, allowing each variety to reach perfect physiological maturity before harvest. Then they went one more; with Biale winemaker Al Perry performing micro-vinifications before aging each part in 50% new French barrels, they set about creating a unique proprietary blend off the estate, a wine that would set them apart.

The 2005 Crane “Brodatious” has it all: enough plump, forward fruit (that splash of Syrah) to make it irresistible now, but the fine, firm structure that is the benchmark of Cabernet Sauvignon from this superb site. There was only one problem. The marketplace.

The problem here is the problem all over the national market. When you launch a tiny brand in 2003 — less than 1,000 cases tiny — it’s tough finding wholesale partners. Just when the press begins to hit in 2008, when you expect to bust out, the wholesalers clam up, dumping more brands in a few months than they’ve picked up in the last few years. Where does that leave this superbly concentrated, nuanced wine with a funny name? “Nowhere good,” Michael Crane told us. “We did everything right and we plan on sticking around. But the only way to do that is to get people to taste the wine. If they like it, they’ll pay more when the market resets.”

Tasting Notes from the WineAccess Travel Log

“Deep purple/black color. Ripe, racy deep red fruit aromas. Big, rich and densely concentrated on the attack with the Syrah providing a luscious intro, followed by the deeper, firmer tones of Napa Cabernet. This one benefits from air, actually better on day two than day one, exhibiting more nuanced aromas, gaining weight, becoming more refined. Excellent, long finish, promising a fine future in bottle. Drink now for the red fruit hedonism or age up to a decade.”