Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley

We grew up with the Diamond Creek Cabernets — Gravelly Meadow, Volcanic Mountain, Red Rock Terrace — of the late 1970s. Back then, a bunch of us could put 20 bucks into a cookie jar and buy a dozen bottles of top mountain Cabernets. Sometimes those Diamond Creek wines were superb. They were huge, and deeply colored, and occasionally, the hard mountain tannins were fully mature and the wines just went on and on. But all too often, the wines were hard as a rock: California’s version of 1975 Bordeaux. Not sure if those Cabernets ever came around.

Much has changed in Napa over the last 25 years, not least of which is the acumen and viticultural know-how that’s brought to bear by the top echelon of Napa Valley winemakers. So years ago, when David Ramey decided to begin purchasing fruit from Diamond Mountain, we were intrigued. Ramey is a perfectionist and a purist, and as such, it took him a few years. He knew what he was after — the perfect marriage of small berry, spiky Diamond Mountain ripeness and grip with the utter hedonism of Larkmead. But it wasn’t until he commissioned grapes from the J Davies Vineyard that the Diamond Mountain picture came into perfect focus.

What’s changed in the last 25 years? “Lots,” David said. “Mountain vineyards are challenging. Guys like Al Brounstein were trailblazers, taking risks that no one was willing to take in the ’70s. But today, we have more resources. We restrict yields, pay close attention to the balance of each plant, wait to pick until the tannins are completely mature. We spend small fortunes for a few tons of fruit, but what we bring in is just mountain magic.”

This first release of Annum, a big, voluptuous blend of Diamond Mountain flash with a brushstroke of Larkmead velvet, is David’s signature expression of 2006. Drink this beauty now if you must, but don’t let the lushness fool you. It’s much better on day two, arguing for a decade of cellaring.

Note: It’s interesting to read Robert Parker’s tasting notes of the Diamond Mountain wine before it was blended with the Larkmead fruit, then to read the notes on Annum 2006.

Tasting Notes

2006 Ramey Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Annum Napa Valley
“The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum (96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% mixed Bordeaux varietals) exhibits aromas of chocolate, cassis, incense, and flowers as well as a distinctive minerality/earthiness, full-bodied power, and a dense, layered mouthfeel. It should easily keep for 25+ years.”
93 points– Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

2006 Ramey Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain
A new offering with enormous potential is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain. It exhibits a smoky, barbecue meatiness, scorched earth, and creme de cassis personality reminiscent of certain Cabernets from volcanic soils. With full-bodied power, a voluptuous mid-palate, and superb length as well as purity, this big, chewy, mountain Cabernet will easily keep for two decades.”
92-95 points– Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate