Luc Morlet with Francois Freres barrels

We call him “The Nose.” We first met Luc Morlet over dinner at Meadowood. Luc didn’t talk a lot, but when he did, there was a certain precision to his words; his choice of wine descriptors was spot on, even in his second language. When you hone your winemaking skills by going barrel to barrel in your family’s cellars in Champagne, you develop the precision of a perfumer.

When Luc’s first wines came out, shortly after our meal, it was like the noise heard around the world. The writers went ga-ga. Fortunately, we had already nabbed a small allocation. Otherwise, the door would never have been open.

What was all the noise about? First, it’s scarcity. Morlet makes only a handful of barrels of a handful of wines. Second, it’s the fruit. Luc’s fruit sources are very much tied to his years as head winemaker at Peter Michael. Only the old Wente clone is planted in dry-farmed vineyards for Chardonnay. For Pinot, it’s just low-yielding Sonoma Coast fruit of incredible fruit intensity and complexity. Last, the cellar. While the vineyard selection and management is nonpareil, it may well be Morlet’s deft Champenois hand in the cellar that really sets him apart.

There are two wines this time: some of the hardest wines to come by on today’s market. “Ma Douce” is a Montrachet-like expression of Sonoma Coast Chardonnay with a gorgeous honeyed kernel of fruit overlaying the brioche-like complexities that come from new Francois Freres barrels. It was like pulling teeth to get a few cases of the the “Joli Coeur” Pinot Noir (we were smart to have picked up the tab at Meadowood!). This may be the best Pinot Noir we’ve tasted yet from a vintage that’s being touted as the best in over a decade in Sonoma Coast. Hugely concentrated black cherry flavors, chiseled structure, and a finish that won’t let go. These are masterworks from a guy who has very quickly risen to the top echelon of California winemakers.

Tasting Notes

2007 Morlet Family Vineyards Chardonnay Ma Douce Sonoma Coast
“The 2007 Chardonnay Ma Douce displays stunning notes of poached pear, creme brulee, honeysuckle, and a hint of tropical fruit in a full-bodied style with terrific acidity, purity, and a background minerality. It should drink nicely for 4-5 years.”
92-95 points–Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

2007 Morlet Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Joli Coeur Sonoma Coast
“The 2007 Pinot Noir Joli Coeur is a prodigious Pinot Noir. It has more earth, roasted herbs, forest floor, and even more intense black cherry and black raspberry notes. What sets it apart is an absolutely sumptuous texture and stunning length of close to 45 seconds. These gorgeous Pinots are great achievements and set for 5-8 years of life.”
93-95 points–Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate